““Because of the magic of water,” he said without hesitation. “The key ingredient in all of those dishes is water. And if you use it right, you have a beautiful sauce, a cremina, thick and round and rich. And if you use it wrong, you have a pile of pasta with a watery sauce on top.”

“This had to rank among the most amusing and embarrassing moments of my career. Until then, I had thought those dishes — the first, simply pasta cooked with guanciale, the cured pig’s jowl that plays a baconlike role in many Roman dishes, and pecorino; the second, just cheese and pepper; and the third, the classic late-night Roman dish featuring garlic, oil and chiles (and sometimes anchovies) — were supposed to be piles of pasta with watery sauce on top.”

And this is where I mourn all the bastardized pasta I ate and enjoyed growing up without realizing what I was missing…

Article here.

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