“[G]ood wines are alive. They don’t just change as they age, they change in a glass over the length of a meal. How you experience the wine will be affected by what you eat with it. Even the weather and your emotions have a role. The same wine will tell vastly different stories on a snowy winter night and a hot summer evening. It will present a different side if you are relaxed and happy, rather than tense and agitated.
“…But the idea here is to pay attention to the wine simply over the course of a meal: to enjoy it, certainly, but also to understand your experience. You will note how the wine presents itself before you begin to eat, and then with food; how the first glass may differ from the second, whether it changes in the glass, and if so, how.
“I once suggested that tasting notes be eliminated entirely….and while I meant to be provocative, I do believe the words we use to describe wine can often be counterproductive and comical.”